Custom Style

Sewing that's Retro, Geek, and Chic

A Dandelion Skant

(Warning: Major geekery ahead.)

Personal log, Stardate: 67158.4

Captain Mari Miller of the USS Disparate Disciplines contacted me via subspace with a request to test another one of her new sewing patterns. (See my last test for her Avocado Hoodie in this post.)

I’m honored for my blog to be the last stop in her Blog Hop for the Dandelion Dress & Top.

The previous stops have been as follows:

When I first saw the technical drawings for this pattern, I immediately thought Starfleet uniform TNG skant. And the lines of the shirt reminded me of the seamlines of TOS uniforms.

I couldn’t help coloring in the outlines with a pencil.

I started with a mockup of the sweetheart neckline top to check the basic fit. I’m pretty close to being an exact size 0 according to the pattern’s measurement chart, so I cut everything at that size.

Meh. Not bad right out of the envelope, but the dart at the point of the side panel wasn’t quite right for me.

The main alteration I needed to make was dropping the underarm seam just a bit because it felt a little high to me. (I’m picky about my armseye fit, and I will avoid wearing something if I feel like it gives me an underarm wedgey.)

Redrawn underarm seam.

The unusual style lines make this pattern perfect for color blocking, and I wanted to make sure I showed them off.

I decided to make two versions – a solid color sweetheart top (B2) and a color-blocked sweetheart dress (B1).

The pattern recommends using a woven fabric (aka non-stretch) but I wanted to see how it would work with a thicker t-shirt fabric (I was hoping the darts would fit me a bit better in something with some stretch), so I cut up a men’s 4X tee.

I eliminated the pattern’s center back seam and cut the back on a fold since the fabric had stretch. I also added a few inches to the length of the top.

The end result was a TOS inspired shirt with a black rib-knit edged neck. Unfortunately, the darts were still too pointy and not quite right on me.

I’m going to make this version over again because I have an outfit planned, so better photos will come in a future post. For now, just these crummy mirror selfies.

Then I made the dress – TNG style, because Leila inspired me with her skant from a few months ago.

I made my dress out of a drapey polyester suiting fabric that came in both red and black. (Yes, I know, expendable crewman. I’ll just avoid any away missions while wearing it.)

I stitched the triangular side panels in as I do when sewing inset points and completely left out the darts.

After everything was assembled, I discovered that I needed to alter the back neck a little because it was gapping. (One of the disadvantages of fitting yourself – it’s hard to catch those back issues in the first mockup or two when you can’t really see your back!) So I reshaped the seam connecting to the back sleeve.

Back neck alteration and corrected pattern piece.

I fussed and tweaked for a long time with the front bust. Ultimately, I decided I needed the tiniest of darts, and put one in that was less than half the width printed on the pattern. (I could probably eliminate them altogether if I messed with the pattern some more.)

Dart as printed on pattern traced on the mockup and actual (smaller) width of dart I put in my dress.

Finished dart on dress.

I had fun taking photos in my new Dandelion skant. And now I actually have a Halloween costume this year because of my Star Trek inspired dress!

Do not mess with me. I have a phaser.

Wensley considers the tribble his prey. He goes into stalker-mode every time he sees it.
No, you cannot kill it!

Some amusing outtakes.
I’m so “at ease” I look like I’m sleeping on my feet in the photo on the right, hehe.

I kind of want to make this dress in a less geeky color-blocked version, but I haven’t found the right fabrics yet. (I’m thinking bright green & grey, or orange & grey.)

To show that it can be styled a little less Trek-like, I paired it with some pointed pumps and a necklace. Behold the power of photo editing software (even in my amateur hands):

Now I wish I could find some bright violet fabric for real!

In conclusion, I think the silhouette and style lines of this pattern are wonderfully interesting, and once the fit is perfected, it’s magic. Both the dress and the top are super comfortable.

I enjoyed sewing this because the pieces were so different from normal. The instructions were easy to follow and because of its unusual construction, I would be sewing along, and suddenly, I would be finished! It was sort of strange not being able to anticipate the end.

The only real difficulty lies in the fact that it can’t be altered in the standard simple ways if it doesn’t fit exactly right – there is no side-seam to take in, etc.

Everyone who wants a fun and different construction challenge should definitely give this pattern a try!

Buy your own copy – here’s the link!

And make it so sew!

Hmm… I guess tribbles really are born pregnant!

=/\=  Personal log, supplemental: My husband loves my new light-duty uniform and says I could pass for a secretary on a starbase.


71 responses to “A Dandelion Skant

  1. Orlene September 10, 2013 at 8:39 pm

    Cute cute cute! Transport yourself to a Halloween party……

  2. Leila September 10, 2013 at 8:40 pm

    Weeee!!! I love your TNG Dandelion! And your props. We could… have so much fun with our costumes….err, I mean, dresses. As always, awesome fit, too.

  3. nettie September 10, 2013 at 8:49 pm


  4. laurahoj September 10, 2013 at 8:51 pm

    I absolutely love it!!! The lines on this pattern are fabulous, and I look forward to all the fun options colorblocking brings.

  5. Lorinda Jones September 10, 2013 at 8:56 pm

    This is really cute, and the color blocking is very nice.

  6. Gjeometry September 10, 2013 at 9:05 pm

    Absolutely delightful Star Trek uniform! I lobe the color blocking. And Wensley is too adorable waiting patiently to eat the evil Tribble.

  7. sewbusylizzy September 10, 2013 at 10:09 pm

    This is SENSATIONAL! I’m going to make one of these – LOVE!

  8. Athene September 10, 2013 at 10:49 pm

    Really cute! Good timing for Halloween. Do I recognize the Star Trek pin from many years ago?

    • Brooke September 11, 2013 at 5:56 pm

      Yes and no. It’s the same shape but a new combadge. I finally got the magnetic back one so I don’t have to put pin holes in my clothes! It’s also better for photos because it’s a replica of what they used on camera (has a faint outline and slightly less shiny).

      Now between me and my husband we have 5 combadges – two of each of the two styles with pin backs and now this magnetic one.

  9. niekemieke September 10, 2013 at 11:41 pm

    It looks absolutely awesome!

  10. DL Dixon September 11, 2013 at 12:04 am

    Love the restyle in purple and black!

  11. CarmencitaB September 11, 2013 at 1:51 am

    I already wanted to make this dress, now I’m convinced I should make it! Set your phaser to stun!

  12. IngeMaakt September 11, 2013 at 1:58 am

    I have no idea what a skant is but I do really like your dress 🙂

    • Brooke September 11, 2013 at 6:34 pm

      Thanks! A “skant” is just the word used for the short dress-like uniforms worn by women in Star Trek. Not exactly sure the term is even used on any of the shows, but somewhere along the way, fans started calling them skants.

  13. agirlinwinter September 11, 2013 at 6:26 am

    That is awesome! The dress looks really good on you. Your dog, as ever, is super cute.

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  15. Becky September 11, 2013 at 10:01 am

    I’m so amused by this. Especially the dog’s reaction to the tribble.

    • Brooke September 11, 2013 at 6:14 pm

      I put the tribble up high on a shelf while he was outside and when he came in, he went straight to the shelf and started jumping for it! It’s like he saw me put it there! Tribbles must die apparently, hehe.

  16. Karen September 11, 2013 at 10:22 am

    Honestly, Brooke, this isn’t a Halloween costume – this is a real dress!! I LOVE color-blocking and I love the black and red (orange and gray would be amazing, too). You have made the perfect rendition of this pattern – expect many compliments when you wear it (and I hope not just for Halloween…).

    • Brooke September 11, 2013 at 6:19 pm

      Thanks so much! Yes, this is just proof that any pattern can be an everyday outfit or a costume depending on how you accessorize it (and what fabrics you use!). =)

      I don’t know that I can wear black & red without feeling like I’m in costume (every black & red color-blocked garment makes me think Trek), but I definitely plan to find excuses to wear it. And I know if I can make it in a different color-combo, I would wear it all the time!

  17. thevintagetraveler September 11, 2013 at 11:33 am

    Fantastic job! Your ability to fit yourself so well is incredible.

    • Brooke September 11, 2013 at 6:22 pm

      Thanks! I guess I’ve picked up some good tricks to fitting because of all my weird costuming jobs. It does take me quite a bit longer to fit myself though – I spend a lot of time scrutinizing in the mirror. (And a patient husband who let’s me talk him through how to pin.)

  18. susanmacnab September 11, 2013 at 12:03 pm

    Amazing! Thank you for your post. 🙂

  19. Tia Dia September 11, 2013 at 1:55 pm

    The purple version is TDF! I love the colour combination. It’s a great dress.

  20. sewbussted September 11, 2013 at 3:17 pm

    Love the color blocking!!

  21. Theresa in Mérida September 11, 2013 at 9:45 pm

    my comment got eaten…wah…
    I love the color blocking on this, normally I don’t care for it. It’s really a good style for you. I’d love to try it out, how does it look ten sizes larger? I fell in love with TOS when it was the only Star Trek though my big crush was Spock.

    • Brooke September 11, 2013 at 9:50 pm

      Thank you! You really should try the pattern for yourself! It has been working well for lots of body types – just check out the other links in the “blog hop” I listed to see other people’s versions. I think the color-blocking would be interesting with a solid and a print together too.

      (Oh, I hate it when comments get eaten! Thanks for giving it a second try!)

      • Theresa in Mérida September 12, 2013 at 5:26 pm

        Now that is an interesting idea, a pattern and a solid! I like that a lot. Okay off to check out the blog hop. I lost my wi-fi and the ethernet cable comes loose and I lose all connection. I have to go to TelMex and get a new modem…but I procrastinate

  22. SJ Kurtz September 12, 2013 at 1:46 pm

    I crawled back up into my chair to say: that’s just….amazing. Now that i’ve seen your variation, that’s all i can see it as. Genius! (and cute!)

  23. Chuleenan of C Sews September 12, 2013 at 7:08 pm

    How fun! You did a great job on this dress. Nice color blocking!

  24. Clare September 13, 2013 at 8:21 am

    Awesome version Brooke, and so fun! Love it with the high boots too, you mean business 🙂

  25. Kirby & Ruth September 13, 2013 at 4:35 pm

    Sew Long and Prosper um I mean Sew Prosperous and Long aw rats WELL DONE, EH?

  26. Susan Partlan (@susanpartlan) September 15, 2013 at 1:48 pm

    What a great post! You look FABULOUS in that dress. You are so talented! The darts on the top look okay to me but the dress darts are perfect. Apologies for being late to reply. I had difficulty getting you blog attached to my reader but it’s all set now. I needed to add “rss” to the URL.

  27. sewexhausted September 17, 2013 at 10:06 am

    Super cute! I love the neckline on this dress… the red and black is wonderful but the purple and black one is AMAZING! The purple just pops and looks great on you! Wonderful dress… wonderful pattern and you look marvelous! ~Laurie

    • Brooke September 17, 2013 at 7:12 pm

      Thanks! I am on the hunt for some bright purple fabric so I can actually make one in purple now. =)

      The neckline really is great, isn’t it? You should give the pattern a try (even if you only make something for one of your daughters) – it’s a really fun build!

  28. Natasha Nicholes (@HFofNicholes) September 19, 2013 at 3:01 am

    I think that I just drooled a little bit.

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  34. Red Point Tailor September 20, 2013 at 7:08 am

    Fabulous! Great fit and you look fantastic in this dress!

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